When I looked up the sun was shining through

joshuautley's picture

Oh Man!!! Today is a good day. My neighbor stopped by and asked if I wanted to paddle out. I was all over it because earlier around 10:30 this morning I had already seen the overhead swell and glassy conditions. We just paddled out right here off of Santa Cruz Street. It was a bit of a rough paddle gett'n out but well worth it. I had to sit outside for awhile to regain my energy before I could even paddle over to where he was so we could talk between sets.

We chatted awhile and I sat patiently waiting. No rush these days. I just position myself and wait. I'm the type of surfer who likes to sit and then lay down right as the wave is coming up on me. After waiting around and observing the sets I found a good spot I was comfortable with my first wave was flipp'n great! I dropped in had a quick power run then two quick turns followed by a nice bottom turn, coming back up towards the face I looked up and realized I was starring up, through the curling lip that had the sun shining through it. At the last second I was able to power my way through the face and out the back. Whew! I would have been hurt'n for certain had I not made it through because there was two to three waves’ right behind it that I barely made it over. Sometimes I wish we could share those images we take and keep in our mind. I wish everyone could have seen what I saw. In only one second I have an image that has made today a great day and that will be with me forever.

The next wave was a left so I didn't quite get to see it as I am regular foot and it was behind me. But, it too was over head and my neighbor said it looked super gnarly. After that I was worn out and the final one was a good long ride in from far outside all the way into the sand at the cove.

Today is a beautiful day. If you get the chance, paddle out at least once each year. If you don't surf, just go watch the surf for a few minutes whenever you can. It's truly amazing.